Yesterday morning, Harper went through the Spring 2020 Menswear collections and their coverage. She stopped dead on Celine’s Menswear show. Why? Because of the lack of surprise.
Since the appointment of Mr Hedi Slimane at Celine, I remained silent on the subject: first because I was a core « philophile » and second because I had no great expectations of what Mr Slimane would do with the brand. Despite these facts, I kept an watchful eye on his shows.
His first Celine collection (Spring 19 Women’s) confirmed what I was thinking : a sense of « déjà vu » many times (at Dior ans Saint-Laurent)! Rock ‘n’roll is (still ) not dead…
The Fall19 Women’s collection took a totally different path: the 70’s Parisian Bourgeoise.
Did someone complain? Were the not-so-new SP19 Glam Rock silhouettes not worth the price paid by LVMH to replace Ms Philo? Anyway, rock was no longer a controversial subject. Had Mr Slimane make a little move forward?
Looking at his Menswear Spring 20, the answer is no. Rock ‘n’ roll is back once more in a 70’s vibe, with a bit of Saturday Night Fever, Serge Gainsbourg and… I’m at loss for words…
By the way, the Fall 19 Men’s collection was pretty much the same but with heavier materials.
So, what do we make of repetition in the fast-changing world that fashion is today?
Nothing. I am personally bored and over it.
Nobody can offer the same style to different fashion houses in only different timeframes. This is fraud!!!
I understand DNA in fashion has lost a bit of its true meaning and aura lately and I am fine with it.
As a consequence, I also admit that a luxury label today is just a window (but a window of creativity and forward thinking).
Celine was, during Ms Philo’s era, a window of minimalism and difference.
Now, I concede Mr Slimane’s talent was, at some stage, to foresee that Rock would be a deep-rooted trend for the years to come and thus, a huge cash machine. Great. I love successful business models.
But then, why did neither Kering nor LVMH offer him to create his own label? Mr Slimane does not need the back-up of a label’s name. He is already a label.